culture tip #7

Japanese restaurants usually have this little guy standing by the door. It's kinda like a raccoon, but with bigger balls. Yes, those are his 'gnads! They are supposed to represent prosperity for the business. In one hand he's holding a bottle of alcohol ("Come on in and drink, drink! Be merry!"), in the other he's got a whip ("You better pay up or it'll be fifty lashes!").

the joys of katakana

Of the Japanese language katakana is my least favourite. Katakana is the most simplified of the 3 scripts they use (the other two being hiragana and Kanji...also sometimes Romanji, their name for the Roman alphabet).

Katakana has a number of uses, such as:

•onomatopoeia, sound words like ピンポン! (ping-pong) The sound of a doorbell.
•for foreign words. For example, コーヒー (kohi), 'coffee'.
•to emphasize words in sentences, much like Western italics.
•to represent foreign accents in comics.
•sometimes to write personal names, if the kanji is unknown.
•to throw off any foreigners learning the language.

The main reason I don't like it is that the katakana words come from a variety of languages and after you mouth it out, usually syllable-by-syllable in my case, you have to change the pronunciation to English and try to match it to a word in our dictionary. Sometimes it's easy in the context, but sometimes the words are changed greatly to make it easier for Japanese people to say it. For example, テレビ (te-re-bi), is 'TV' or 'television', but it sounds totally different. Another weird one is パーソコン (paa-so-kon), or 'personal computer'. Also you'll notice just how similar the two characters for 'so' ソ and 'n' ソ are. Not to mention the similarities between 'shi' シ, and 'tsu' ツ, or 'ku' ク, 'ke' ケ, 'u' ウ, and 'wa' ワ.

Also, sometimes Japanese people will think that the word comes from English when instead it comes from another language entirely. Students sometimes try to use these words in English, saying for example 'gerende' for 'ski slope'. I still haven't been able to figure out which language says 'gerende' for ski hill. Anyone have any idea?

Most menus are also written in Katakana, especially in any restaurant that serves foreign food. It's pretty funny to read the menu like a 3 year-old. "Se....no, no no, 'su'....supa....supageee. Ah! Spaghetti!") Man, who would have thought being partially illiterate could be this much fun?!

Here's a chart of the syllabary:

ア a イ i ウ u エ e オ o

カ ka キ ki ク ku ケ ke コ ko
サ sa シ shi ス su セ se ソ so
タ ta チ chi ツ tsu テ te ト to
ナ na ニ ni ヌ nu ネ ne ノ no
ハ ha ヒ hi フ fu ヘ he ホ ho
マ ma ミ mi ム mu メ me モ mo
ヤ ya ユ yu ヨ yo
ラ ra リ ri ル ru レ re ロ ro
ワ wa (ヰ) wi (ヱ) we ヲ wo
ン n

Also my name is written in katakana: グルーム

Hakuunro (ghost) Hotel

In the late '50s, this hotel resort was Japan's finest place to vacation. It gained it's fame when the emperor came here to swim in the Olympic-size pool and lounge around in the fresh mountain air. The original hotel was a massive structure designed by Frank Loyd Wright in Italian style on a mountain, overlooking the tiny, rural town below.

However, sometimes in the 70s it started losing money and more and more parts were gradually shut down until it was finally abandoned in 1998. The glorious path leading past choirs of fountains and lines of twisted cherry trees was left ungroomed. The small boom town that grew around the resort was cut off from the world. Some people had built their own houses in the hills leading to the enormous palace; these too went unsold, uninhabited and became overgrown with plants.

On Monday, Akiko and I decided to sneak into the abandoned hotel to take some pictures. We woke up early because we heard that during the day there's a guard who makes sure the antiques stay inside the empty building. Despite the ugly fact that we were awake at 6am, the sunrise over the mountains was stunning.

Unfortunately, when we arrived there, it seems the dead hotel really had died. There was a gaping hole in the skyline above the small, mountain town — a haunting emptiness on the mountain. It turns out the hotel was torn down last month by the government, due to danger of collapse. Yes, there was a moment of disbelief, but we decided to brave the overgrown grand entrance to see what was left of the village around it.

The only remains of the hotel was the giant swimming pool. It had partially been used as a dump site, and the workers constructed a dyke to contain some water. It was immense though, and the tile gave hints of the splendor of this ghost hotel.

Along the wide road, which likely led tour buses zig-zagging their way up the mountain passed grandiose, empty fountains and waterfalls, we spotted a house in the forest. There was an mossy, overgrown path, covered in snow. The house looked like a traditional Japanese one, made from mostly wood an paper.

Along one wall, some fruit-bearing vine had grown. There were two levels, and one wall had entirely caved in. So we snuck in. The interior was littered with family articles, mostly kitchen stuff, shoes, as well as a rotary telephone. The tatami was rotten and collapsed back into the earth, but if you stepped on the beams, you could make your way through the house.
The stairs seemed remarkably stable and the upstairs had a lot more furniture — probably stuff they didn't want to carry down the stairs and over the little pathway to the big road. The massive windows let light shine through the vines and the ripped paper screens. This room had the feel of a family bedroom, now tenanted by trailing plants. The ceiling inside also had a leafy covering and one vine curled itself along the electrical cord of a single hanging light bulb.

The calendar was dated March 1973, using western numbers.

Farther up the hill we found, amongst other things, a school house, a replica Edo Period theme park, and an exhibition hall. This complex, contained offices and storage, as well as a small museum. The roof had partially collapsed, and through the window I spotted an old-skool vending machine.

Here you can see the collapsed roof. Inside were replica artifacts from Samurai times. But the real treasure was to be found in the field behind the building. From afar it looked like a grassy garbage dump. But once we got closer and started peeling away the vines and weeds, we found gold!

An abandoned fire truck! The siren is still an analogue one, that works with a fan. The dump site was actually a vehicle grave yard, with a few service vehicles and motor bikes. The bikes were being pulled into the ground by the roots of plants, but the firetruck was still in good condition...relatively, speaking of course.

fig 9: the last resting place of so many cars

This place must be so green in summer. I bet you wouldn't be able to find half the buildings in the forest when all the walls are green.

After we finished a few rolls of film and my digi-cam was running out of memory and battery power, we headed back down the long, snaking road to the village below and took a dip in the hot spring. A good beginning to the day; it was still only 10:00am!

Here's an article about it from 2002. Unfortunately, I was unable to find any pictures of it during it's glory days.

cool music video

The megaphone is amazing!

canned coffee review

from left to right: FIRE, Rainbow Blend, DEEPRESSO, Wonda Morning Shot, Double Presso

well...These are some of the finest canned coffee on the Japanese market, and you have their review here first!

Remi — 'DEEPRESSO' (plus 'Double Presso', but he didn't know it)

Remi: This looks pretty good. I'm excited to try it.

He didn't know we put a little Double Presso into his DEEPRESSO.
Remi: I hated myself more with every sip, but I couldn't stop drinking. I ended up in the bathroom on the floor weeping like a beaten housewife. The flavour was bitter, but i couldn't stop drinking. Now I'm hooked on the stuff and it still kills me every time.

A newcomer! but Akiko was willing to give it a shot.
Akiko — Velvet Touch
Akiko: hmmmmmmm...

Akiko: oooOOOoooooOOOOOoooooOoo so gooooooood!

Josh — Rainbow Blend

Josh: Well, I'm skeptical. I'm not even a coffee fan, but I'm willing to give it a try...Even if it looks like it's gonna be disgusting!

Josh: Oh my god! I can only say...'fabulous!' Oh Man! So good! Speaking of 'man'...I feel a little naughty. Know any good places to shake my man booty? I'm feeling cowboy sexy, like Broke Back Mountain


Graeme — Morning Shot
Graeme: Alright! This is gonna be awesome! I'm super-excited to try this. I mean, I'm a Suntory fan at heart, but any coffee is good if it's hot and free.

Graeme: What the hell?! I opened this thing and it sprays me in the face?! Jeesus! I just wanted a wake-me-up not this craziness!

Michiyo — Fire
Michiyo: Really? Why do I get this one? Is there something wrong with it? ...And why does it come in a barrel?
Graeme: Trust me, Michiyo, this will probably be the most delicious coffee you'll ever drink from an alluminum barrel!
Michiyo: Ok. Here goes...

Michiyo: Atsui! Atsui! (translation: 'hot! hot! It tastes like I'm drinking a burning building!)

the 21st Century Museum

Well, one of my favourite places in Kanazawa must be the museum. It is definitely the best contemporary arts museum I've ever seen. The museum is a giant circle seen birds-eye view. The yard around it has these little pipes that pop out of the ground all over; they are all connected and often you can see children yelling into them, trying to find the one that connects to their friend who's yelling into a different one a few meters away.

As far as exhibits go, they have a big variety: everything from video and new media, to conceptual art, to giant installations. The artists hail from all over the world and range from obscure to hyper-famous. My favourite permanent pieces are:
•'Void #18' (not sure if that's actually the title though), by Anish Kapoor
•'The Plant Gate' by Patrick Blanc — sorry no image of the one in Kanazawa, but you'll get a good idea if you click the link
...and, of course, my personal all time favourite:
•'The Blue Sky Room' by James Turrell




Also popular is 'Leandro's Pool' by Leandro Erlich.

Benjamin took some cool pics too on his Japan Blog

When I was there the other day some artist gave all the children who came into the museum brightly coloured bunny suits. It was very surreal to see so many children running around in red, yellow and blue bunny suits. Unfortunately, my camera was out of batteries so I couldn't take any pics!

This is definitely a highlight of Kanazawa, and not to miss if you ever come here. In fact, right now I use this pic for the backdrop on my phone:

2 views of the sky

It's like the trees in this country decide to grow in a different direction every 3 years. Seriously, these massive pine trees look like SUPER-SIZED bonzai

This is the view of god between the buildings.

late one night...

Late one night, while walking home after work, I passed this little place. Usually it's always closed when I finish work, but that night it was open and alive. The lanterns were so welcoming, I just wanted to go inside, like some weary traveller from afar.

On a different note, I've decided to write down my New Year's Resolutions so that I can check in one year to see if I've accomplished them. So here you go:

1.) Save money: I know that it'll be spring before we know it, so I want to pay off all my debts ASAP so I can take a little trip once this Asian Budget Airline gets off the ground.

2.) Improve my Japanese: By the end of 2007, I want to be nearly fluent. I want to be able to talk about god, the universe, and history.

Well, there you have it folks! I'd be intersted to haer your resulutions, if you have nay.

oh! #3.) is to learn how to type properly, by the way!

the fortunate me (Culture Tip #6)

Well, yesterday I was Coming of Age Day here. It's the day when anyone who turned 20 in the last year celebrate their ability to vote, and drink legally. I went to my favourite shrine with Miyuki, my language buddy. I had no idea it was Coming of Age Day (or more like I had no idea what it actually entailed), so I was surprised to see so many beautiful girls in Kimonos. I don't know whether I was staring more at the girls or the kimonos, because everything seemed amazingly beautiful.

Aside from the commotion, I went to get my omikuji or fortune for the year. All shrines will give you a piece of paper with your fortune written on it. You throw in a silver coin, kinda grab one haphazard and unfold it. Lucky for me, my fortune for 2007 will be dai-kuchi, the best—or litterally the 'biggest'—fortune.

culture tip: once you have read...and by 'read' I mean 'deciphered' your message, you roll it up and tie it onto a tree. The shrine will burn them later so the message becomes part of the universe.

But back to my fortune for a second. Good luck in business, and relationships, if I stay moderate and avoid arrogance. Love will be 'tough' (bad translation, because it wasn't the word I know for tough, as in 'difficult'), but I shouldn't be pushy. As for travel, I will likely not go alone, and it will be to the north west (Europe maybe? Kazakstan???). Also, if I lose anything this year, I probably won't find it again.

So there you have it! I mean, I wish I could have taken the note with me to study it in detail, but I had to tie it to that cone-shaped thing. Oh well...

あけましておめでとう！

Well, I'm back in Japan. The first few days were crazy since I started working the very next day and I'm still kind of recovering from the jet lag. But I had a lot of fun in Canada with my friends and family. After Xmas, it was one big party that stretched into the New Year. oh! By the way, HAAAAAPPY NEW YEEEEEEAAAAAR!!!!

My flight over there was amazing. I had no problems at all. I didn't even get searched once — which is pretty amazing considering my record number of customs inspections, interrogations, and strip searches! I was stuck in Narita airport for about 6 hours though, and so I made a friend at the gift shop. We talked when I was buying some stuff and I later saw her sitting alone eating, so I ate some lunch with her. It was a test of my Japanese, but it went fine.

In Canada it was good to see my friends and family. I spent Xmas with the family and Kelly, the girl who made the Couch Surfing pilot episode with my sister. She was an interesting addition and fit in well. I also met up with Sheleena, one of my oldest friends, who I haven't seen for about 2 years!

from left to right: Gavin, Kelly, Julie, Sheleena

The days after Xmas leading up to New Year's Eve was basically one continuous party. I saw many friends (some only briefly) and even partied with the Tiesma crew (and Alison)! It was good to see everyone. I hung out downtown a lot with Gavin, my bro. and Mr. Matt, who's gotta be one of the craziest guys I know. Good times. I missed the city, but I must admit it was weird that there was no snow. I really wanted to go skating and snowboarding, but it was impossible. Damn you Global Warming!!!

Here's a shot of Queen Street near Gavin's apartment. The architecture is so uniquely Toronto. The only thing missing is the Streetcar!

As for doing the things on my list: I accomplished most of them. As I mentioned it was pretty much impossible to have a snowball fight or to go skating outdoors since the temperature was between 6 and 12 degrees the whole time I was there. Actually, it did snow one day, but disappeared the next day.

This is a picture of poutine for anyone who doesn't know. It's a truly Canadian food made from french fries, cheese and gravy. It's very sticky and absolutely delicious. I had 3 of them while I was there.

I had a really good time, but to tell you the truth, I kinda missed Japanese food by the end. I'm glad to be back and I feel as if I really bonded with Julie, who has kind of been an absent presence last year. I have really good feelings about this new year and I wish everyone happiness and prosperity for 2007.